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Mystery Pub at Hotel Panorama — Double Helix in the Sky Tonight

The neon sign on Goodwood Road has Vintage Vegas vibes. Its glow evokes Sinatra, the Sands, and the faded 1950s. As such it promises the clientele they’ll enjoy a glamorous experience. Will an otherworldly Dean Martin tend the door with white-gloved hands and a toothy smile?

Hotel Panorama opened on June 17. In an era where pubs are routinely demolished or heartlessly converted into student housing, how often do we actually get to welcome a new inn? It’s particularly delightful because this part of Adelaide has long been that most dreadful of urban disasters: the pub desert.

With its foothills position and five-story tower, there are transfixing views from the rooftop bar, Wonderland, towards the CBD. It is the city seen from the south and, while its skyline is modest, it heartens Claire and me. It’s no Manhattan but we know it so well, like an ageing uncle. Peering over to our beloved metropolis, I consider how it could easily pass for a city in the American Midwest or Germany.

Claire has an Alpha Box and Dice Tarot Pinot Grigio while I opt for the reassurance of a Coopers Pale Ale. Our setting allows for wintry sun, and it courses across the gulf, and the western suburbs, in through the rooftop windows and finally out from the hoppy prism of my ale glass.

We begin our gentle interrogation of the week’s minor triumphs and skirmishes. At five bells, beer, golden light and a smiling wife all make for a picturesque scene.

The resident DJ is magicking that endless Friday DJ mix which manages to be both likeable yet also immediately forgettable. This, I guess, is the trick. I’m drawn in when the following chorus drops into the room-

Oh, thunder only happens when it’s raining
Players only love you when they’re playing

Why is this 70s song, ‘Dreams’ now everywhere? Fleetwood Mac is terrific but so much of the contemporary cultural machinery operates beyond my understanding. Is this a sonic version of frequency illusion or the Baader–Meinhof phenomenon but for old soft rock tunes?

Continuing this theme, Claire says, ‘I’d never heard the saying, springing for tickets and then I heard it twice in a couple days.’ Baader–Meinhof again, friends. Later, Steely Dan liquifies in my ears. They, too, are lurking.

As dark rises from the July soil, the pine trees of Largs Bay and Semaphore curve along the becalmed gulf. Twin stars appear as faint blurs. Through the rectangle of night sky planes land and take off in Kubrick silence. On our window table is a small lamp which generates, for an Adelaide venue, an enticing intimacy that Melbourne pubs seem to better execute.

The toilet/bathroom/restroom/dunny also offers a view over the city through colossal windows, though it’s not quite a poo with a view. But there’s burgundy wallpaper of a fantastical bent that might be categorised as safari chic. A jungle of giraffes and absurd elephants in Adelaide’s suburbs? It’s entirely at odds with what we’ve experienced in this sparkling new boozer, and I’m sure that this is the point. Perhaps globalisation has shrunk our world so arrestingly that decontextualization has become one of the last reliable forms of surprise.

I finish my pee and then, reunited in the lift, we fall back to earth, safely.

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Mystery Pub: Viva Las Vegas – The Peninsula, Taperoo

Claire and I are back in the nation of Le Fevre at the accurately labelled Peninsula Hotel. Motoring there proved simple as we accessed the Northern and Port River Expressways with the metaphorical Friday breeze in our hair.

Taking in the hotel visage, I’m smitten as the 2019 renovations have aspired to a Vintage Vegas aesthetic. This evokes iconic buildings such as Circus Circus, the Tropicana, and the Flamingo.

It’s a genuine point of difference as both outside and in are devoid entirely of Port football iconography. It’s brazenly decontextualized and if you wish to drink up homegrown sporting nostalgia, there’s a dozen nearby pubs in which you can do this until you’re silly as a wheel.

This is an architectural delight and midcentury Americana tribute. With a rhetorical front and conventional behind, the Peninsula adopts the Stardust Showroom model of being a ‘decorated shed.’ It presents as a portal to an immersive world.

Most striking are the bright greens, pinks, reds, and blues on the external and internal windows. Lighting and colour are often poorly done by interior designers, so this sets an enticing tone and suggests risk and adventure and ageless excitement.

All in downtown Taperoo.

Vegas motels are styled as pleasure zones like the Alhambra, Disneyland, and Xanadu while the famous gambling strip is also neon in the Atomic Age and uses Miami Moroccan visuals. I mention to Claire that according to my reading, Vegas is situated in an ‘agoraphobic auto-scaled desert.’

But that’s enough psychosexual geography.

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5pm can be a curious, twilight time to descend upon a pub. The lunch and function crowd have (mostly) long left and omitting Queensland pensioners, it’s too early for those seeking dinner. Office types are still pretending to write outcomes-driven emails. But we’ve arrived and the emptiness aids critical appraisal and having the bar to ourselves is also helpful for conversation.

Like racehorses and heavy metal bands, modern beverages are prone to enchanting names that overpromise and underdeliver.

Claire requisitions a Shy Pig Sauvignon Blanc while I go for a local beer in the Big Shed Peninsula Proud. It’s a hazy pale ale, brewed in the neighbouring province of Royal Park. Both drinks deliver and my pint is hoppy and aromatic and pokes me in a late afternoon kinda way.

The movie set-like Peninsula isn’t an inexpressive cavern or processing plant but rather a place promising veiled and tempting nooks. Taking up residency we examine our week and encouraged by the setting, talk shifts naturally to the Rat Pack and the Chapel of Love and Elvis.

We consider visiting Vegas. Claire says, ‘I’d love to go. You’ve been there, right?’

Queue my Vegas blackjack story. I reply. ‘Yes, you know!’

Claire summarises neatly if a little eagerly. ‘That’s when you went to a casino at midnight and got to bed at 8am? When you were still winning at dawn and then gave all your money back?’

Ouch.

‘Correct,’ I affirm before offering a meek defence. ‘It was such good fun.’ I interrupt with an idea. ‘A trip there would have to include the Grand Canyon. It’s easy the best thing I’ve seen on the planet.’

Claire doesn’t say, ‘Make sure in Vegas we get a steak and Caesar salad.’

Returning barwards for our second and final refreshments, I note that the busiest section of the pub is the gaming room complete with carnivorous pokies.

But a picturesque, serene light streams in across our table and unlike the optical and aural assault of Vegas, it’s quiet and lounge standards from Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin drift through the languid interior like smoke.

And now we’re a very long way from Port Adelaide. Maybe that’s the seductive trick of the Peninsula: the escapism, the effortless time travel, the mirage.